The Re-making of Aragorn (Step 2)

Welcome to the second step in my series on the "Re-Making of Aragorn". In this step, I must design the final pose of the model and build the armature (wire skeleton) onto which I will sculpt the "Super Sculpy". Read on...

I began by searching up images of Aragorn on the net, books, and screencaps from the film to inspire me with a great new pose for my new model. I was looking for something that fit within the timeframe where all of the nine characters were together and felt like a rough ranger (Strider) but would have that hint of regal (Aragorn the King).



















The inked pose on the right (above) was the one that felt the most right to me. Aragorn has a defiant, yet regal stature. He has his sword drawn and ready for combat. Since this is early Aragorn (Strider), I will be looking to make him as scruffy as possible with all of his travel gear.

WARNING: A coat-hanger is seriously harmed in the following steps. If you find yourself wrought with emotion over the harsh treatment of coat hangers, please discontinue reading now.

To start the armature, I search my closet for an ordinary coat hanger. I also needed a piece of plaque wood for the sculpting base, machine screws and a power drill.






I begin by straightening the wire, and then bending it around the screws that I will use to secure the feet to the base. Basically making wire feet with loops in them for the screws to fasten through.





I then take the excess wire and bend it back up to the leg and twist it really tight around the shin area. This serves a dual role of making the wire sturdier and helps me make a "foot" shape to ground the model to the base (see right).





Ultimately, I end up with what amounts to "metal legs". I have carefully bent these using my size and proportion chart to make sure that they are the correct size and have the joints in the right places for my Aragorn in the pose that I have designed.





Next, I drill the holes for the feet in the wood base. I make sure that the holes line up with the loops in the wire feet and draw on the silhouette of the model's feet.






I then attach the wire armature to the wood base and do all of the necessary final bending to get the wire into the proper position for the chosen pose.






There are many different methods to start the next step of a Scuply armature (including aluminum foil and more wire), but my preferred method is to use "QuikSteel" which is a fast hardening metal putty. It kneads like putty, but within 10 minutes it is hard as metal. It can be scraped, sanded, painted etc. This can be found in the Automotive section of a store and is most commonly used as radiator and dent repair.


I use the putty to give my armature some substance to build my Sculpy onto and to strengthen the wire so that it flexes less. If the wire flexes after I harden the Sculpy, it could cause cracking and breakage of the legs. Metal putty is also heat proof (used on radiators) so that it is perfect for use on an armature that will soon be baked to harden the Sculpy.

Notice the detail (on the right) to see that I poke many holes into the metal putty with a toothpick before it hardens. This serves the purpose of giving the Sculpy clay something to hold onto and to help it stick to the armature. Poke them in all directions, the more the merrier, so that the clay can make many fingers with which to adhere to the putty.

That's it for step 2. Onto fleshing out the model and adding some details!