Gimli From the Mold
Well I finally found the time (after 2 years of work) to buy some mold material and resin and start the final phase of my project.
After assessing any areas that might trap air in the mold (when I poured in the resin), I added chutes to the model to create air "chase holes" in the mold. Since the model would be poured upside down in the mold, areas of concern for me were the draping chainmail (which would be pointing up and catch an air bubbles). Air bubbles mean that those pieces would not get any resin into them during the pouring, and thus not form right.
Satisfied that I was ready, I built a cardboard container around the body and parts and poured in my liquid rubber. The rubber I'm using is a more "amateur" friendly version, but good enough to do what I needed.
Mold rubber is a two-part mixture of latex/silicone and an activator compound. Which, when mixed with a spoon or stir-stick, gets a lot of tiny air bubbles in the rubber which threaten to degrade the quality of your mold as you will get pockets all over your part. A professional grade rubber requires a vacuum chamber (into which you place the mixed rubber container) to pull the air out of the rubber before you pour it. The stuff I am using is less costly and doesn't require the vacuum. It is a lesser quality rubber (won't last as long), but is designed to greatly reduce the chance of bubbles settling against the part. Thus, I get a good mold, with less cost and equipment, but I won't be able to make as many parts from it.
Also, the reason I had to be so careful about getting a good mold the first time around is that you inevitably destroy the original part when you are removing it from the mold (see last photo). One shot, baby and months of work are destroyed. But luckily, I can now replicate Gimli in resin and I see that the mold is good! If I notice any irregularities, or pieces not forming because of a bubble, I can jump right into that area of the mold with an exacto knife and carve a chase-hole myself and usually straighten out the next casting.
I am now ready to make my final Gimli (s)!
After assessing any areas that might trap air in the mold (when I poured in the resin), I added chutes to the model to create air "chase holes" in the mold. Since the model would be poured upside down in the mold, areas of concern for me were the draping chainmail (which would be pointing up and catch an air bubbles). Air bubbles mean that those pieces would not get any resin into them during the pouring, and thus not form right.
Satisfied that I was ready, I built a cardboard container around the body and parts and poured in my liquid rubber. The rubber I'm using is a more "amateur" friendly version, but good enough to do what I needed.
Mold rubber is a two-part mixture of latex/silicone and an activator compound. Which, when mixed with a spoon or stir-stick, gets a lot of tiny air bubbles in the rubber which threaten to degrade the quality of your mold as you will get pockets all over your part. A professional grade rubber requires a vacuum chamber (into which you place the mixed rubber container) to pull the air out of the rubber before you pour it. The stuff I am using is less costly and doesn't require the vacuum. It is a lesser quality rubber (won't last as long), but is designed to greatly reduce the chance of bubbles settling against the part. Thus, I get a good mold, with less cost and equipment, but I won't be able to make as many parts from it.
Also, the reason I had to be so careful about getting a good mold the first time around is that you inevitably destroy the original part when you are removing it from the mold (see last photo). One shot, baby and months of work are destroyed. But luckily, I can now replicate Gimli in resin and I see that the mold is good! If I notice any irregularities, or pieces not forming because of a bubble, I can jump right into that area of the mold with an exacto knife and carve a chase-hole myself and usually straighten out the next casting.
I am now ready to make my final Gimli (s)!
posted by ADAM at 8:22 PM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home